To date, 2021 has seen a growing proposal of watches with steel bracelets. Following this trend, which started last year, watches from the 1970s and 1980s with all-steel bracelets are returning to the collection.
They range from Cartier's legendary Pasha designed by Gérald Genta to Baume & Mercier's Riviera, to the Zenith Chronomaster Sport, which partly recaptures the characteristics of one of the company's vintage models. Breitling's Super Chronomat stands out, bringing back the quartz module for the second time zone integrated into the bracelet. Leaving the re-editions behind, we move on to the Bulgari Octo Finissimo S, launched in early 2020, and the IWC Big Pilot, equipped for the first time with a bracelet in the same metal as the case. Steel and new vintage, then, to combat the crisis.
Steel, because it is accessible. Recalls to vintage, on the other hand, for two very specific reasons: to reassure the public with lines that are already familiar and to focus attention on the second-wrist market, which is increasingly in the ascendancy these days. On the one hand, the Houses are seeking notoriety in the auction world, and on the other they are increasingly putting their foot down in the vintage model trade, trying to take space away from specialist dealers. With some difficulty, but with conviction.
After all, the aim of brands to increasingly take the place of intermediaries in all market sectors has been evident for some time. Now it is rumoured that over the next two years Richemont plans to expand its mutibrand TimeVallée chain, already in China, Korea and Spain, from 15 to 100 shops worldwide: "An innovative multi-brand boutique concept offered to all luxury watch brands and managed by independent external partners. TimeVallée boutiques introduce the best watches to both emerging and mature markets through a store experience that goes beyond traditional retail norms". For the models, therefore, one looks to the past, while for distribution, one unquestionably points to the future. The future of a market increasingly controlled - directly - by watch manufacturers?
Dody Giussani
