In 1987, the Premìere marked Chanel's debut in watchmaking: a feminine and sophisticated timepiece immediately recognisable by its unique octagonal case protected by a facetted sapphire crystal, whose rounded corners are a clear reference both to the cap of the N°5 perfume bottle and to the aesthetic features of the Place Vendôme, seen from the windows of Mademoiselle's bedroom.
35 years after Première Original Edition marked a return to its origins but with subtle innovations. Albeit imperceptible at first glance. First of all, the gilding of the steel case, no longer plated but treated with yellow gold PVD, which coats the metal with a uniform, highly durable protective layer to make it even more resistant to the scratches of everyday use, and then covered with a further layer of yellow gold, 0.1 micron thin.
Other differences include a slightly increased thickness to 7.65 mm and greater lightness and comfort on the wrist, given the lower specific weight of the steel used for the bracelet chain, originally made of brass.
That bracelet (available in four different sizes) with a chain interlaced with a thin black leather ribbon, which is a distinctive element of the Chanel style, taken from the chain of the iconic 2.55 handbag.
As is the elegant meeting of black and gold, two pivotal colours in Mademoiselle's creative palette, which we also find in the black lacquered dial, devoid of anything other than the golden Chanel hands and logo. The movement is quartz.
The original box of the first Première of 1987 holds the new model, made of leather with white satin lining, with only the small black logo, in the stylistic essentiality of the Chanel vocabulary.
Price6,100 euro.