Only major brands; only independent; as long as it is original; only watches with a bracelet; with a diameter of less than 39 mm... Every enthusiast and collector has his or her preferences, but the most radical is the one that distinguishes the lover of vintage from the lover of new. Not that there is no overlap, quite the contrary. But when the choice is dictated by passion, one hardly changes one's mind.
Rationally speaking, on the new side weighs the security of buying a perfectly functioning watch, covered by a warranty that many manufacturers are extending to 6 or 8 years.
Vintage, on the other hand, offers a certain stability of value over time (when not subject to speculation). But it generates insecurity in some, always doubtful about the originality and state of preservation of the piece, even when 'vintage' actually means 'second-hand'.
The purchaser's peace of mind is provided by the manufacturer's second-hand offerings guaranteed by the manufacturer. The most recent example is that of Rolex, with its Certified Pre-Owned programme, but it is not the only one. Conceptually original is the Zenith Icon initiative, aimed at tracking down vintage watches from the House with well-defined characteristics and now in its second act.
After the El Primero models from '69 onwards, it is now the turn of The Space Age, with the search for space-designed models in full Seventies style, selected, restored and certified by the manufacture's Heritage Department. An approach designed for lovers of the most authentic vintage.
The House's determination to enhance its history can also be seen in an initiative such as the one that members of L'Orologio Club were able to discover last week, with the inauguration of a corner that is a small Zenith museum, in Milan, inside the Orologeria Sangalli dal 1900. It is the first shop-in-shop where you cannot buy anything, only enrich your watchmaking culture.
Dody Giussani
