When Daniel Roth founded his independent brand, it was almost a revolution. The unprecedented double-ellipse case, the complications and the risk of creating a haute horlogerie brand without a big name behind it made it a legend in a very short time. Now, two other geniuses such as Michael Navas and Enrico Barbasini, founders of La Fabrique du Temps (owned by Louis Vuitton), have recreated one of its best-known models and the result honours the history of the Maison.
The intuition behind the rebirth of this brand, whose historic calibres have already been reinterpreted and incorporated into Bulgari's complicated models, lies with Jean Arnault (Marketing and Product Development Director of Louis Vuitton watchmaking), the youngest son of LVMH owner Bernard Arnault. And while it is true that the former Roth & Genta manufacture is now an integral part of Bulgari's production chain, the choice of La Fabrique du Temps for the new Daniel Roth watches was the most logical one.
At first glance, the new Tourbillon Souscription has all the characteristics of a classic Daniel Roth, but every detail has been revised and improved. In addition, the watch comes on the market with a Souscription, à la façon de Bregueti.e. with a kind of pre-sale, already under way, with a view to delivery in 2024.
The case (38.6 x 35.5 mm) features the unmistakable double ellipse design. The gold dial has the same layout as its origins, with the hour disc at the top and the tourbillon at the bottom, but the finish is clous de Paris. The hand anchored to the tourbillon (another detail typical of the brand) indicates the continuous seconds, with the three arms of increasing length running alternately in a 120° arc.
The movement is the manual DR001 calibre, developed by La Fabrique du Temps, with an 80-hour power reserve. Beyond the few pieces that will be produced (20 in all), the importance of the revival of Daniel Roth lies in the valorisation of the insights of a master to whom modern watchmaking owes so much.
PriceCHF 140,000 (excluding tax).
