Breguet's new Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 combines the sporty and daring aesthetics that characterise the Marine collection with a multi-complicated movement combined with highly refined decoration. Breguet is now presenting a brand-new variant with a pink gold case and slate-coloured gold dial. With the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887, Breguet has interwoven three threads of its history. First, the legitimacy of producing a tourbillon, an invention patented by its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet back in 1801. Second, its legacy in the field of multi-complicated watches, which is equally important: the Marine 5887, in fact, is not only equipped with a state-of-the-art tourbillon, but also with a perpetual calendar and an equation of time display. Finally, by uniting these two historical pillars of the House in a single Marine timepiece, Breguet recalls that in 1815 King Louis VXIII named its founder Horloger de la Marine Royalemaking him the official watchmaker of the French Navy. To emphasise the close relationship between the Marine line and the sea, the guillochage recalls the crests of the waves in the centre of the dial, which is made of gold. The applied Roman numerals, like the Breguet "pomme" hands, are in pink gold. The back reveals the design of a French Navy flagship, the "Royal Louis", adorning the movement's decks. Spread over the four bridges, the design comes alive thanks to the minute details chiselled on each of them. On the barrel drum is a wind rose, also engraved by hand. The guilloché-engraved platinum peripheral oscillating weight bearing the Breguet name offers a complete view of the movement and its decorations. The Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante has two minute hands, one for civil time and the other for solar time. At the heart of the movement is a cam on a sapphire crystal disc, which makes one revolution every year, faithfully reproducing the cycle of the equation of time. This transparent disc, on which the months are marked, allows a glimpse of the tourbillon. The mechanism is completed with a differential gear train. The ingenious solution lies in its ability to combine two mechanical sources of information to indicate a single result. The indication of civil minutes is reproduced by the watch's main gear train. The value of the time equation is provided by a palpator that follows the cam tracks. In this way, the differential in effect applies the formula for calculating solar time (civil time plus equation of time), indicated by the solar minute hand. Thanks to the two minute hands, the user can conveniently read civil time and solar time together. The marching equation of this Marine is also associated with a perpetual calendar. The display of this calendar, unique in Breguet's collections, comes from a mechanism with a novel conception. The day of the week and the month are indicated in small windows rather than by hands. The date is indicated by a retrograde hand. This rotates around the arc of the circle until the end of the month, to return instantaneously to the first day of the following month in the middle of the night. The movement of this multi-complicated watch is a declination of the extra-flat 581 calibre with automatic winding equipped with a tourbillon. The basic notions on which Abraham-Louis Breguet's patent is based remain unchanged: the watch's regulating elements - the balance, the balance-spring and the escapement - are located inside a cage that makes one revolution per minute, thus balancing the deviation in gear caused by gravitational force. Modern technology played an important role in the design of this tourbillon: in fact, its cage is made of titanium and the balance spring, as well as the escape wheel, are made of silicon. As the construction of the movement has been rethought, the rotation of the cage is realised by the drive of a peripheral gear wheel. The tourbillon and the whole of its components seem to float in space. The barrel has not escaped a thickness reduction. By digging a groove around the drum and keeping it with three bearings placed on the outside, Breguet's designers were able to reduce the thickness of the 25%. To combine the power reserve with the other indications on the dial, this can be read via an indicator at VIII o'clock.
Data sheet
Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887
Ref. 5887BR/G2/9WV
Case
18K pink gold, fluted case middle. Sapphire glass back. Diameter 43.9 mm, thickness 11.75 mm, Water-resistant to 10 atmospheres (100 metres).
Dial
Slate-coloured, in gold, hand-guilloché. Individually numbered and signed Breguet. Hours circle with 18K pink gold Roman numerals and luminescent hour markers. Facetted 18K pink gold Breguet "pomme" hands with luminescent material. Sunray minute hand with facetted gilded sun. Day window between 10 and 11 o'clock. Month and year window between 1 and 2 o'clock. Retrograde date on the arc of the circle from 9 to 3 o'clock. Power-reserve indication in a window between 7 and 9 o'clock.
Movement
Automatic with tourbillon, running equation of time, perpetual calendar and 80-hour power reserve, cal. 581DPE, 563 components, 16¾ lignes, 57 jewels. Numbered and signed Breguet. Small seconds and equation cam on tourbillon axis. Silicon escapement wheel and inverted side anchor with silicon horns. Silicon spiral. Frequency 4 Hz. Adjusted in 6 positions.
Strap
In brown alligator leather, with pink gold triple folding clasp.
