The Black Bay 54 is a contemporary version more faithful than ever to Tudor's first diver, Reference 7922, and introduces a new size of 37 mm. With a steel case that is water-resistant to 200 metres and a unidirectional bezel (without the minute scale as in the early 1950s when diving was in its infancy), it is equipped with the Cosc-certified automatic calibre MT5400. It comes with a steel bracelet or a rubber strap, both with Tudor's 'T-fit' quick-adjust system. Price: €3,840 with bracelet; €3,630 with rubber strap.
In the 60th anniversary year of the Carrera, TAG Heuer launches a version inspired by the "glassbox" design, a reference to the domed hesalite crystals of the early 1970s Carrera, and with an updated movement. With a 39 mm steel case, the glass has been reworked so that the curve flows seamlessly around the tachymeter scale that runs around the edge of the dial and inside the case. Also new are the pushers, which have been shaped and positioned to make them as user-friendly as possible. The movement is the automatic TH20-00 calibre, an evolution of the Heuer 02 calibre. Price: 6,500 euros.
The ProPilot X Kermit Edition from Oris is a tribute to the funny frog star of The Muppets. On the lime green dial, there is a nice surprise: a Kermit emoji appears on the first of every month on the date display at 6 o'clock. It is based on the ProPilot X Calibre 400 in 39 mm titanium and is fitted with one of the brand's manufacture calibers, a mechanical self-winding movement with a 120-hour power reserve and a guarantee of up to 10 years. Price: €4,400.
Odysseus Chronograph is the first automatic chronograph from A. Lange & Söhne, with a 42.5 mm steel case and the new calibre L156.1 Datomatic. Without totalizers, it positions both chrono hands in the centre of the dial, thus keeping the Big Date and the day of the week. It features dynamic pushers with a dual function: in the normal position of the screw-down crown they operate start, stop and reset the chronograph; when the crown is pulled out they correct the day of the week and the date. Limited edition of 100 pieces (price on request).
In Hublot's MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde, the bi-axial tourbillon makes one complete rotation every 60 and 30 seconds respectively. Its skeletal, suspended structure is protected by sapphire glass on both sides; a display with a bi-retrograde mechanism for the hours and minutes makes reading from left to right intuitive. The new manual HUB6200 calibre is designed to be wound only in the forward direction, to prevent damage caused by the hands moving backwards, and capable of providing a power reserve of up to 96 hours. Titanium case. Price: 165,000 euros.
Inspired by the world of science fiction, space and time travel, the 2023 Chanel capsule collection includes the Monsieur de Chanel in a limited edition of only 55 pieces. A skeleton dial, carved from a meteorite mineral fragment that makes each watch unique, and surrounded by a 42 mm matt black ceramic case, shows off the flying tourbillon, a first for the Monsieur collection. Hand-wound Calibre 5.1. Price: 120,000 euros
Grand Seiko's first mechanical chronograph, the Tentagraph extends the brand's Evolution 9 sports watch range. Based on the revolutionary 9SC5 Hi-Beat calibre, it beats at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. Moreover, thanks to its energy-saving escapement and two barrels, it ensures a three-day autonomy even when the chronograph is running. Case and bracelet are in titanium, the bezel in ceramic. Price: 14,300 euros
Baume & Mercier celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Riviera with an unprecedented 39 mm Baumatic variant with a steel case and smoky grey sapphire crystal dial. The watch does not renounce one of its most typical features, the dodecagonal bezel with its four visible screws. The Baumatic BM13-1975A movement is capable of ensuring a 5-day autonomy, an accuracy of -4/+6 seconds per day and antimagnetism of up to 1,500 Gauss. Price: 3,990 euros.
