The award, sponsored this year by Vicenzaoro, was instituted in 1994 by our magazine to honour the models most loved and appreciated by the public of enthusiasts and admirers. The awards were presented during the prize-giving evening at the Fashion Cafè in Milan.
Twelve categories were chosen as the watches of the year: Solotempo, Chronograph, Underwater Watch, Tourbillon, Complicated Watch, Design, Savoir-Faire, Innovation, Calendars, GMT, Ladies' Watch, Value for Money.
In addition to these awards, there is also a special prize awarded by the members of L'Orologio Club, who are invited to cast their vote to choose the model that absolutely deserves to win the title of Watch of the Year.
SOLOTEMPO
Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Flat 39 mm
In the year of the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, the famous watch designed by Gérald Genta conquers the hearts of our readers with the new 39 mm Extra-Flat, or "Jumbo" to its friends. For the first time since 1972, the Jumbo is equipped with a new movement: the in-house automatic calibre 7121, which replaces the historic 2121 manufactured by Jaeger-LeCoultre. The watch on which, at its birth, few people bet, after half a century continues to prove successful and evergreen.
CHRONOGRAPH
Patek Philippe
Monopusher 1/10th of a second chronograph Ref. 5470P-001
Yet another demonstration of the Italian public's passion for Patek Philippe, which in this category scores high with its first wrist chronograph to the tenth of a second. The technical approach is anything but traditional: it features two independent chronograph mechanisms (one for seconds and 30 minutes, the other exclusively for measuring and displaying tenths of a second), with concentric measuring scales. Perfectly balanced between elegance and sportiness, it is a watch in pure Patek style.
SUBACQUEO
Omega
Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep
A confirmation for Omega, which again this year stands on the podium as the best diver's watch. The winner this time is the series evolution of a prototype full of innovations, which has dived to the deepest point on the globe. An extreme watch, with truly astonishing technical data, starting with water-resistance to 6,000 metres, capable of eliminating the helium escape valve thanks to a new patented technical design.
TOURBILLON
Franck Muller
Round Grand Central Tourbillon
In a category linked to tradition, the winner is a brand with a strong personality, even when it comes to grand complications, which has often demonstrated avant-garde technical solutions on the tourbillon theme, with its multi-axes or ultra-large Gigas. In this case, it is a more classic, but still personal interpretation that hits the mark: a self-winding central tourbillon with a four-day power reserve. Confirming the capabilities of a brand that has been able to rapidly tread the path of constant growth.
COMPLICATED WATCH
Vacheron Constantin
Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus
A watch with no fewer than 16 complications, many of which are related to astronomy, spread over two dials, takes the podium. A bespoke model, created by Vacheron Constantin's Les Cabinotiers department, the place where enthusiasts' wildest desires are translated into technical and artistic reality. Exceptional not only for its mechanics, but also for its sumptuous decoration with a mythological theme, inspired by the god of vines and wine. An almost predictable result for a brand that has few rivals when it comes to grand complications.
DESIGN
Zenith
Defy Skyline
The prize goes to the stylistic evolution of the Defy Classic and its new personality: away with the rounded shapes and make way for bolder, more angular facets and a dial dominated by the 4-pointed star motif. All elements taken from the first Defy of 1969. The design is also enhanced from a technical point of view, with the legendary El Primero calibre in the new solotempo declination, which introduces a small grand complication with hypnotic power: the continuous seconds counter with the sphere completing one complete rotation in 10 seconds, making high frequency the star of the dial.
SAVOIR-FAIRE
Bulgari
Octo Finissimo Ultra
An example of technical and stylistic savoir-faire, the majority of readers decree the victory of a timepiece that concentrates Swiss watchmaking innovation and Italian elegance in a mere 1.8 mm. A technical achievement that exceeds the limits of ultra-thin watchmaking, reducing components to the limits of feasibility and working to the most extreme tolerances. Without renouncing all the aesthetic codes of Octo Finissimo, increasingly appreciated by the public, with its characteristic grey monochrome matt look that makes it unique.
GMT
Breguet
Marine Hora Mundi
A beautiful statement of a multi-time zone with an original technical concept, showing local or home time 'on demand'. This model wins because its complex movement, which makes changing from one time zone to another so simple that it seems obvious, represents a remarkable design challenge. But also because of its spectacular multi-layered dial, which displays all the House's craftsmanship savoir-faire, such as the hand-guilloché engraving that is the signature of Breguet dials with a gold base.
CALENDARS
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Polaris Perpetual Calendar
Readers prize a perpetual calendar offered in a sporty layout, part of a collection inspired by the legendary Memovox Polaris of 1968, from which it takes some details. The charm of the complication is combined with excellent everyday wearability and practicality, with a robust case that is water-resistant to 100 metres and a convenient interchangeable strap system.
WOMAN'S WATCH
Baume & Mercier
Riviera Coastline
In the Ladies' category, the winner is a watch that has been a symbol of Baume & Mercier's sporty/elegant watchmaking since the 1970s. Its ladies' version retains the style and character of the Riviera, while readjusting the balance of its forms. The same style is now enhanced in this precious variant, with a dial that plays with diamonds in an unusual and very personal way. Elegant, informal and casual, even in its ladies' version, it follows what was the vocation of the original model.
INNOVATION
Grand Seiko
Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
An excellent demonstration of savoir-faire by Grand Seiko, which, in proposing its first major mechanical complication, combines for the first time a tourbillon and constant-force mechanism, integrated into the tourbillon cage itself. The radical skeleton design of the watch reveals its superlative mechanics. A major evolution for the Japanese brand, which opens a new chapter in its history, gaining the full approval of our readers.
QUALITY/PRICE
Tissot
PRX Chronograph
The winner is a chronograph in the category of steel watches with an integrated bracelet, heir to a model from the 1970s which then interpreted a trend that is now very much in vogue again. A perfect balance of retro aesthetics, technique and functionality, it has won the public's appreciation, given its excellent overall execution and Valjoux movement in an affordable price segment, under 2,000 euros.
SPECIAL AWARD L'OROLOGIO CLUB
Parmigiani Fleurier
Round PF GMT Rattrapante
The choice of our readers' and collectors' club rewards an ingenious and brilliant technical interpretation of the dual time zone, presented in a classic and elegant watch with a minimalist style. The seemingly clean dial of the Tonda PF conceals a decidedly useful feature for travellers, which can only be activated when necessary. And it rewards the new direction of an independent, niche brand that looks to its past but with originality and innovation.
