The Explorer, Rolex's first technical specimen intended for the most extreme uses (it is inextricably linked to the 1953 conquest of Everest), returned in 2021 to its original 1950s size (36 mm), introducing a two-tone version and updating the movement. Does the two-tone betray its identity in your opinion? In our opinion no, but instead enriches its offering. And if the new dimensions bring it back to the past, the new mechanism projects it into the new millennium.
From a construction point of view, historically we find a very durable Oyster case, a highly readable dial and traditional Rolex mechanics. The last update dates back to 2016 with the introduction of the 39 mm version. Plus the return of luminescence on the dial indices, which are more legible thanks to the Chromalight coating in the striking blue colour.
The new 36 mm diameter is a size that belongs to it historically and represents the perfect symmetry for a minimalist model such as the Explorer has always been, optimising the balance between the dimensions of the bezel and the dial elements. The reference becomes 124273 and is characterised by the choice of yellow Rolesor for the clothing, but a more classic Oystersteel is also in the catalogue. This two-tone is also a novelty, because until now the Explorer had only been available in steel with a black dial.
Another substantial difference is the movement, which is part of the 3200-calibre family destined to replace the previous 3100 series in its entirety. The new calibre 3230 implements the functionality of this watch compared to the previous 3132. First of all, it increases the power reserve to 70 hours, in addition to the adoption of the brand's proprietary Chronergy escapement used on the new generation Rolex calibres, an optimised version of the Swiss anchor escapement with an efficiency of 15% superior to the traditional escapement.
